[Stuckybolts115]

Hi Folks,
I've been recently hearing a knocking noise coming from the clutch from my MC19 - only when it's engaging, suspected bearing issue. In the process of trying to take it apart, got as far as the clutch locknut.. noticed that this is what I was greeted with (see pics below) seems like the nut was punched into a locknut recess? Not sure if this is a normal thing to discover - It's absolutely solid, put the bike in gear and applied brake etc.. Got help with this and was hanging off a 3 foot breaker bar with not a single ounce of movement before the tool wants to dance out of place. Any recommendations for removal ? Was thinking to take it to my local bike shop to see if they can have a go.

(also noted that theres some decent cut marks on the clockwise seat of the nuts.. so i imagine overtightened quite alot?)

 

[Dannoxyz]

Gotta remove that top lockring 1st. Looks like it's staked in place pretty good. Can you drill out the overlapping metal at staked location?

 

[Stuckybolts115]

Gotta remove that top lockring 1st. Looks like it's staked in place pretty good. Can you drill out the overlapping metal at staked location?

Yeah, i'll have a go and knock out the metal binding them and see if it can spin. Didn't realise that was a lock ring though.

*edit - that's not a lockring from what I can tell, that's the axle the clutch nut threads onto.

 

[Dannoxyz]

Ah ok, parts manual does only show a nut and washer holding it on. Buggered threads from staking will definitely keep you from unscrewing past that point without damaging nut.

Wow, 7 kg*m torque holding that sucker on!!! I've had good luck with hammer-driven impact wrench. Force from hammer keeps tool on nut and helical mechanism inside really amplifies torque.

 

[Stuckybolts115]

Thanks, haven't got a sufficient impact tool so my plan is to put it into 6th (dont have the holder tool) and wrench on it whilst holding the bike - after I've removed the crimped metal of course. Hopefully it goes well.

 

[thebeefsalad]

Grind it out gently if you can't get a drill at it. I used a dremel to remove that material when I pulled my basket off. Slow and easy, so as to leave as much thread as possible. Still took a few uggaduggas to get it to back off, but the threads are still in good shape.

 

[Stuckybolts115]

Went ahead and tried that today - see pics below. Couldn't figure out when the nut material ends and the axle cutout material ends, so unsure how far to go. Wan't to avoid any damage to the axle if possible. (This was with a 1.5mm drill bit.)
Was too sheepish to try and wrench on it as well, don't want to cause any problems with the gears seeing as i dont have a holder and it's taking a very large force. I would of attempted it probably, but as you can see.. it's not really clear IF i've freed it up enough, and i'm afraid to keep drilling further.

 

[Dannoxyz]

I made clutch basket holder from 0,5m piece of 5x25mm flat bar stock. Drilled 2 holes at end to line up with 2 of the spring posts and bolted it on with some long bolts. Was able to leave trans in neutral.

Looks like you may have removed enough material. Might try loosening nut, any residual overlapping material will show up as crack when layers separate. That's lots of torque holding it on. Try PB-blaster overnight to creep down threads. Really try to find hammer impact tool. Also handy for difficult screw heads like brake-reservoir lids. Make sure you have it set for loosening not tightening.

 

[thebeefsalad]

I made clutch basket holder from 0,5m piece of 5x25mm flat bar stock. Drilled 2 holes at end to line up with 2 of the spring posts and bolted it on with some long bolts. Was able to leave trans in neutral.

Looks like you may have removed enough material. Might try loosening nut, any residual overlapping material will show up as crack when layers separate. That's lots of torque holding it on. Try PB-blaster overnight to creep down threads. Really try to find hammer impact tool. Also handy for difficult screw heads like brake-reservoir lids. Make sure you have it set for loosening not tightening.

This lead to me breaking the posts on the XR650R, though this one looks bad enough it probably doesn't matter if he snaps a post. I'd still try to get 3 if not 4 of the posts onto a homemade holder before I threw the uggudugga at it. Hammer impact will probably be the best bet, and cheap (compared to pneumatic/electric/battery impact) I know I've been amazed at what the hammer impact has done (vs 20-30gal tank at 120PSI for the pneumatic impacts I own)

If you only drill/grind where the square part is near the threads, you will avoid the threads completely. With enough time, patience, accuracy, and drill bits you could remove a sizeable section of the nut without touching threads: as long as you avoid the area outside of keyway on the shaft.

 

[Stuckybolts115]

Thanks for the advice, I'm going to ring the bike shop to see whether they'll touch it - then deal with whatever they can, or can't do after. Happy to continue myself, but will need to make a homemade holder at the very least, so might take a bit of time (Hopefully they sort it out quicker than i could.)

On another note - this is the noise i'm chasing

Rattle when engaging/slipping clutch, no noise in neutral at any point or when clutch engaged. Noise quietens down past 4k~ and when the bike is completely warm, almost nearly disappears as a noise (but can still hear it if you put your ear to the cover case.) Suspected bearing ? However noticed alot of movement in the spring posts.. assume that's normal though.

 

[Dannoxyz]

Shouldn't be any movement at those posts.

 

[Stuckybolts115]

You sure? they move completely freely about 6mm inside their respective holes * i checked on a youtube video for the clutch removal on this bike. they show freeplay so i think its normal, this is ofc with springs out.

 

[Dannoxyz]

Hmm Ok, Seems odd. I don't recall movement last time I did mine, but that was like 10-yrs ago.