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Discussion Starter #1
[align=center]Converting H4 Headlight Bulbs to Fit a CBR250 H4R Socket[/align]

CBR250's use H4R bulbs, which are not a common size. Subsequently, they cost more, harder to find and a smaller selection. There is an easy way to convert a common H4 bulb to fit.

BTW... this method is not my idea. People have been doing this mod for a long time, for various other bikes.

H4 bulbs have 3 tabs, all point outwards from the centre.



By folding the tabs over something thin, like a nail, you can create two new tabs to the side needed to fit a CBR250 H4R socket.



I prefer to use a half a split pin, rather than a nail. If you use a nail, you definitely need a long thin one to be able to wrap the tabs over. I find split pins work better, as they are thinner than a nail and have a flat side to sit against the bulb base. I use 2.5x40mm split pins, which you can get at hardware shops and a lot of auto stores.




Here is the converted bulb in place...




Without additional wiring mods, the CBR250's don't like 55/60W bulbs. They are only designed to handle 35/55W bulbs. Using higher wattage bulbs often causes the headlight switch contacts to melt (fails). It also very common to have battery problems, as the battery doesn't get any charge at idle and the headlights suck significantly more power. It can make it harder to start the bike too, unless you can turn off the headlights to start.

If you touch the glass on the bulb, remember to clean it with something like acetone to get rid of the oil/fingerprint. Don't use kero, as it leaves a residual film.

;)


Changing the bulbs...

1. Pull the bulb socket off.
2. Pull the rubber boot off.
3. Unclip the wire retainer, which work like a safety pin.
4. Remove bulb.





35/55W or 60/55W Bulbs???

35/55W = 35W low beam, 55W high beam
60/55W = 60W low beam, 55W high beam

If you use 60/55W bulbs, the contacts in the switch gear will likely fail. The current is too high for this switch, as it was only designed for the lower wattage bulbs. The current going through the switch is just too much, and it causes the plastic to melt and the contacts push away. Poor contact then causes the charring.

Unfortunately 60/55W bulbs also cause flat batteries... the CBR250's just don't put out enough current while sitting at idle rpm, and it results in no end of battery problems.

I made a solution to cover all the problems :cool: Unfortunately I don't always have stock, as they are a bugger to manufacture.
http://www.eclipze.com.au/headlight_upgrade/main.html
 

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Hey!!!
If your worried about overdrawing your headlight circuit, do what I did, add a relay to the system.
Run a 20Amp fused wire from batt to relay, relay to lights, and to and fromt he switch. No burning out.
I regularly do this putting driving lights in cars. The only question is then if the overpowered globe will melt the headlight housing... Will update when I convert mine... *Gulp.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The 60/55W globes won't melt the standard CBR250 head lamps. It will melt the plastic Tyga head lamps though... that's been proven.

Adding the fused battery wiring and relay will bypass the switchgear problem, but you're still left with the higher wattage bulbs causing battery drain. When at idle, the CBR250's just don't pump out enough power to cope with those bulbs. So the battery gets drained, and lead acid batteries that are left low on charge degrade... and many have run into battery woes. So it's best to use a battery tender frequently, particularly if you do short trips, stop/start traffic or not ride frequently ;-)
 

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OUCH!
I just got outclassed... Someone here really IS a pro.
Thanks for the globe heads up... Might have to try 90/100's then. lol
Or I'll put HID's in 'em, not that it'll make much difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hahahaa... :lol:

Now before this erupts into a couple of pages of HID flaming, let me summarise. HIDs have been tried before, however because the CBR250s have reflector lamps, the light goes everywhere. It's equivalent to having mega bright high beams on. The mere mention of putting HIDs in can result in a forum spanking. Common practise for oncoming traffic is to blind you back using their high beams (watch out for 4WDs with extra lights!!!), or those in front will slow down down to make you overtake... so they can in turn, blind you from behind ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Aduro said:
We need a sticky. "Guide to being flamed"
What... noobs need a guide on how to get flamed :newspaper:
I don't think they need help :dance:

Now... if it was a guide on how not to get flamed, it would rob us of the opportunity and tradition :popcorn:
 

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Eclipze said:
Aduro said:
We need a sticky. "Guide to being flamed"
What... noobs need a guide on how to get flamed :newspaper:
I don't think they need help :dance:

Now... if it was a guide on how not to get flamed, it would rob us of the opportunity and tradition :popcorn:
Beleive me... I just got RAPED!!!
Don't need no instruction manual. Yu guys got it down pat... Wont mention Those lights which must not be named again... Though I run them (as driving/spot lights) on cars, they shocking when you drive into them when people use 'em as headlights. admitedly.

Oh and thanks em sea... Just let everyone else flame me... Grrr. lol
 

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Hey tony do you still make the kits? snakey looks like he needs one before he finds a HID XD
 

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I'll just ebnd H4's. HID's are crap ok. I'll admit. But I sell 'em so yeah. I'm supposed to endorse them. They suck in small lights, Only good in cars. (Well some of them at least)
 

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Sort of not related, but I was wondering if anyone knows where you can get the actual headlight surround from? Is it part of the actual front fairing or can you buy the separate part. The right headlight is completely sealed between the actual light and the fairing, but the left one has an opening right around the light, and at night time some of the light from the headlight shines but up onto the inside of the screen and is quite distracting. Any ideas where to get the part from?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's a rubber strip. Kinda like a rubber band, except it flare out to the fairing to block the light. You should be able to find them at wreckers. Or... you can make one from a bicycle inner tube.
 

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No bike wreckers around here. :(

Will pull the nose cone off tomorrow and have a look, see if I can sort it out with tire tube like you suggested. Thanks Eclipze.
 

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hey eclipze,
any headlihgt kits available yet?
My headlight relay is still alright, but I'd like to try your system in comparison.
Not to mention, the switchgear in mine is about to fuck out.... Gawddammit. I fitted the relay to PREVENT it fucking out... Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I forgot to order the darn cases for them. Wrote them down on my list of parts to order, then forgot about them hahahaaa... They should arrive early next week, so I can have the kits ready by the end of the week.

I'm also going to get some of the new Xtreme +100% bulbs :cool:
Getting a good price on them too ($11 cheaper). So will have the kit with no bulbs $117, with +50% GT150 bulbs $145 and now a kit with the new Xtreme +100% bulbs for $164 (used to be $175 with the +80% bulbs).
 

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How long do they usually hang around for, before you sell out of them? I need to scrape together some money before I can buy the kit, but I'll fire you a PM when I'm ready.
 
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