[janz]

After 4000ks of riding since i got my CBR250RR, today the headlights have stopped working.

Today i rode my bike to uni in the morning, didn't notice whether the headlights were working or not.
I finished uni at 5, went to turn the bike on, started fine without any throttle, for the first time... hmm.. strange... then i noticed the headlights stopped working.
Indicators, dash board light, oil light, parking light, all lights were working except the headlights.
I took one of the headlight globe out, globe was fine then i put it back in, tried again, no luck.

Then i got home, took one of the globe out again, found out the globe is 60/55w...
So i am assuming the switchgear is screwed up? after 4000ks of riding...

 

[shinjuki]

Switch gear is gone. Does ur high beam still work ? Try clicking it on n off.

 

[janz]

Switch gear is gone. Does ur high beam still work ? Try clicking it on n off.

No, high / low beam both not working.
the blue hi/lo light on the dash board not working too

 

[shinjuki]

Mmm thats odd. Must be the switch block . Take it apart n check the connection on the hi/lo switch its prob melted abit.

 

[Eclipze]

Always best to check the basics... and double check them if you don't "really" check them the first time! Simply because it is so easy to check the basics before you procrastinate about the worst case scenarios :dance:

The basics...
- Check the bulb filaments aren't blown.
- Check the head fuse isn't blown.
- Does both the high beam and passing button not turn the high beams on.
- When you have the low beam on, does your dash back lighting and the tail light work? Not talking about brakelight, just the low level brightness you see at night.

 

[janz]

Always best to check the basics... and double check them if you don't "really" check them the first time! Simply because it is so easy to check the basics before you procrastinate about the worst case scenarios :dance:

The basics...
- Check the bulb filaments aren't blown.
- Check the head fuse isn't blown.
- Does both the high beam and passing button not turn the high beams on.
- When you have the low beam on, does your dash back lighting and the tail light work? Not talking about brakelight, just the low level brightness you see at night.

-bulb flaments aren't blown
-head fuse is fine
-pushed high / low beam button, no headlight at all
-passing button wasn't working when i got the bike
-when i turned the key to on, all the lights are on except the headlights

 

[shinjuki]

Take the switch apart and check the hi/lo button switch there should be 2 lil springs and connectors i bet they r melted .

 

[Eclipze]

I'd be inclined to say it's the switch gear at this stage. You probably don't even get the "relay click" from the high beam relay.
Unfortunately 60/55W bulbs are known to melt the switchgear. They just weren't made to handle the current unfortunately.

 

[xotoby]

I'd be inclined to say it's the switch gear at this stage. You probably don't even get the "relay click" from the high beam relay.
Unfortunately 60/55W bulbs are known to melt the switchgear. They just weren't made to handle the current unfortunately.

while your on the topic eclipze.
what is your thought on running one h7 and a h4 60/55w.
with only the one h4 60/55w on highbeam permanently (low or highbeam turned on).
h7 turns on for highbeam though.

that is the setup I currently have on my 250. you reckon its safe for the switchgear in that scenario? :S

 

[Eclipze]

while your on the topic eclipze.
what is your thought on running one h7 and a h4 60/55w.
with only the one h4 60/55w on highbeam permanently (low or highbeam turned on).
h7 turns on for highbeam though.

Um... little confused

So you have a H7 in one lamp and a H4 in the another.
The H4 is on highbeam permanently.

If I've got that right, this is a terrible setup. To start with, you really shouldn't have highbeam on all the time, as it's glaring in other drivers eyes. Which in turn is dangerous for you, either by them hitting you or if they turn their high beams in kind.

The H7 just shouldn't be there. The H7 is a single filament bulb, and if put in a lamp designed for a dual filament it's going to project light in both the high beam and low beam patterns. The H7 55W isn't as powerful as a H4 60/55W either, so it's a down grade.

This approach will give you loads on highbeam and a weak low beam. So you won't have much light to the sides and the majority focused forward. Wouldn't recommend this configuration unfortunately.

 

[janz]

thanks heaps Shinjuki and Eclipze.
i will have a look at the switch gear during the weekend.

 

[xotoby]

while your on the topic eclipze.
what is your thought on running one h7 and a h4 60/55w.
with only the one h4 60/55w on highbeam permanently (low or highbeam turned on).
h7 turns on for highbeam though.

Um... little confused

So you have a H7 in one lamp and a H4 in the another.
The H4 is on highbeam permanently.

If I've got that right, this is a terrible setup. To start with, you really shouldn't have highbeam on all the time, as it's glaring in other drivers eyes. Which in turn is dangerous for you, either by them hitting you or if they turn their high beams in kind.

The H7 just shouldn't be there. The H7 is a single filament bulb, and if put in a lamp designed for a dual filament it's going to project light in both the high beam and low beam patterns. The H7 55W isn't as powerful as a H4 60/55W either, so it's a down grade.

This approach will give you loads on highbeam and a weak low beam. So you won't have much light to the sides and the majority focused forward. Wouldn't recommend this configuration unfortunately.

thanks tony.

it's not really my choice of setup either. however
simon (whose kit it is... with the 600rr headlight unit. )
said it is better than running dual filament bulbs in it, as the lowbeam on a dual filament bulb in that headlight unit, reflects light back onto the bulb causing it to burn and blow?
[it was originally set up with 2 x h4 60/55w] both low beam, both highbeam [normal setup].
but a bulb burnt smoked out the headlight unit, popped off etc etc.
that's when he sent and suggested this current setup. for the 600rr light unit.

could it be that the 600rr lights are designed for only 1 filament, 1 brightness?.... i dont know anything bout that bike.





theres just no winning

 

[Eclipze]

while your on the topic eclipze.
what is your thought on running one h7 and a h4 60/55w.
with only the one h4 60/55w on highbeam permanently (low or highbeam turned on).
h7 turns on for highbeam though.

Um... little confused

So you have a H7 in one lamp and a H4 in the another.
The H4 is on highbeam permanently.

If I've got that right, this is a terrible setup. To start with, you really shouldn't have highbeam on all the time, as it's glaring in other drivers eyes. Which in turn is dangerous for you, either by them hitting you or if they turn their high beams in kind.

The H7 just shouldn't be there. The H7 is a single filament bulb, and if put in a lamp designed for a dual filament it's going to project light in both the high beam and low beam patterns. The H7 55W isn't as powerful as a H4 60/55W either, so it's a down grade.

This approach will give you loads on highbeam and a weak low beam. So you won't have much light to the sides and the majority focused forward. Wouldn't recommend this configuration unfortunately.

thanks tony.

it's not really my choice of setup either. however
simon (whose kit it is... with the 600rr headlight unit. )
said it is better than running dual filament bulbs in it, as the lowbeam on a dual filament bulb in that headlight unit, reflects light back onto the bulb causing it to burn and blow?
[it was originally set up with 2 x h4 60/55w] both low beam, both highbeam [normal setup].
but a bulb burnt smoked out the headlight unit, popped off etc etc.
that's when he sent and suggested this current setup. for the 600rr light unit.

could it be that the 600rr lights are designed for only 1 filament, 1 brightness?.... i dont know anything bout that bike.





theres just no winning

Hahaaha.... ok... I didn't realise you didn't have CBR250's headlight fitted. Having CBR600RR headlights changes things, including my advise. I'd hate to get quoted out of place.

Looking at my notes, I believe the CBR600RR from 2004 through to 2008 use H7 bulbs. In which case, I would definitely recommend to use a H7 for the low beam, as you have done. I would not use a H4 for the highbeam, as the optics for that lamp is designed for a H7. I wouldn't set it on permanently either, as that would be too bright for low light and night time riding and it'll be a bit power hungry for the CBR250.

The CBR250 is good for 70W of power on the low beam. So a 55W H7 will be fine for your low beam. High beam runs through a relay, and either the H4 for H7 will be fine for that too... but would still recommend a H7 to get the proper high beam projection it was designed for.

I'd also recommend you consider a Philips GT150 +50% bulb for at least the low beam. They are a good price and worth it. Get one for the low beam and swap the old H7 into the high beam socket

 

[janz]

OK, updates.
I decieded to get a LHS switch gear for my bike and try to solve the headlight problem.
Paid $200 for a brand new switch gear coz i couldnt find any 2nd hand in the market.

Got the switch gear today and fitted it. Also fitted the Eclipze CBR250RR headlight mod, got new light bulbs too.
Both hi/lo beam still not working at all!! All other lights do work! except hi/lo beam!

Need help please!

 

[aj26]

Maybe check that your fuses & headlight relay are still working, check all wiring that isn't melted already.
I had a look at another bike recently that had 2x 60/55 ultra blues in them and yes with the cut mod H4 lol, nothing wrong with the switchgear no smell or damage to the plastic.

New LHS Switchgear did you wire it properly because theres a different way..
http://li148-39.members.linode.com/forum/showthread.php?mode=linear&tid=307&pid=

Theres a small light on the module on the upgrade kit, should tell you if its giving out power or not. Helped me

 

[janz]

Maybe check that your fuses & headlight relay are still working, check all wiring that isn't melted already.
I had a look at another bike recently that had 2x 60/55 ultra blues in them and yes with the cut mod H4 lol, nothing wrong with the switchgear no smell or damage to the plastic.

New LHS Switchgear did you wire it properly because theres a different way..
http://li148-39.members.linode.com/forum/showthread.php?mode=linear&tid=307&pid=

Theres a small light on the module on the upgrade kit, should tell you if its giving out power or not. Helped me

thanks for the quick reply
Where is the headlight relay located and how does it look like?

For the New LHS switchgear i got, it looks exactly the same as the Old Switch Gear in the Oz import v grey import link. Becuase my bike is an import, does that mean i have to re wiring the brand new 'old switchgear'?

For the headlight upgrade kit, the little black unit i just had a look, there was no light when i turn the key to on...
I think this is how you connect the black and red wire to the battery?

Also... i found this

i duno if this would affect the headlights?
The wires werent connected to anything before and after the headlight stopped working

Thanks!

 

[aj26]

The headlight upgrade isn't just the battery side maybe take photos of the headlight side too, but you see that raised dot its a LED indicator troubleshooting thing.

The wires the the fuse on it could just be a battery charger harness, I have one too

Have you tried using the old switchgear again, it could possibly still work
not sure about the LHS Switchgear you'd have to see what eclipze says

TroubleShooting…
Highbeam, but No Lowbeam…

There are so many things that can stop the Low Beam running. Fortunately, the
headlight mod has a little diagnosis light that can help determine where the problem is.

On the box, there is a light. It can light up green, amber or both. Green is directly
tied to the output, so if it’s green, then power is coming out. The amber is controlled
by the software, and flashes each time it goes into a different state.

Normal Operation – Low Beam On
· 20 Seconds after ignition is turned on.
· If you flash the high beam.
· If the engine is started (might need a slight rev to see the alternator working).

Running
With ignition off, the amber light will flash really quickly and dimly around every
second. It is really faint, so don’t expect to see it in daylight. This means it’s running
in a super low power state.

Ignition On – 1 Amber Flash
Turn ignition on, and you should see the amber light flash once.
If it doesn’t check –
1. Red/Black wire is plugged into the white wire at the (near right headlight).
2. If highbeam doesn’t work, check the headlight fuse.
3. Check your headlight switch is in the on position (if not already locked on).
4. It might be the headlight switch is faulty. Check with a multimeter that you
get ~12V at the white wire (front right headlight) when ignition is on. Not
uncommon for a problem with these switches if 60/55W bulbs have previously
been fitted… as the current causes damage to the switch.

Low Beam On – 2 Amber Flashes
If you turn ignition on and wait 20 seconds, the green light should come on (so should
the headlights) and the amber flash twice. It can be a little difficult to see the two
flashes with the green light on.

If you get the 2 Amber Flashes, but not the Green light, then you might have a short.
You might actually see the green light turn on briefly, when it tries to turn on. If so,
have a look at the cables going to the front. Check if any of the insulation has come
off and any wires exposed to the frame etc…

High Beam On – 3 Amber Flashes
Turn ignition on, then turn on the highbeams. The amber light should flash 3 times.
While the high beam is on, the low beam stays off – this is normal. If you don’t get
these 3 flashes, and the high beams do come on, then check the connection going to
the black/blue wire. When you turn the high beam off, the low beam should turn on
straight away and you should get 2 amber flashes (as above).

If your still stuck, or have something to add to this… please do contact me!
Eclipze

 

[Eclipze]

Woot :dance: aj26 has it covered!

The LED on the module is quite handy for working out if the switchgear and highbeam relay are working. It's been a while, so I'd recommend to re-check the headlight fuse just in case.

With your new switchgear... does the horn and indicators work? Does the passing switch now work?

 

[janz]

The headlight upgrade isn't just the battery side maybe take photos of the headlight side too, but you see that raised dot its a LED indicator troubleshooting thing.

The wires the the fuse on it could just be a battery charger harness, I have one too

Have you tried using the old switchgear again, it could possibly still work
not sure about the LHS Switchgear you'd have to see what eclipze says

TroubleShooting…
Highbeam, but No Lowbeam…

There are so many things that can stop the Low Beam running. Fortunately, the
headlight mod has a little diagnosis light that can help determine where the problem is.

On the box, there is a light. It can light up green, amber or both. Green is directly
tied to the output, so if it’s green, then power is coming out. The amber is controlled
by the software, and flashes each time it goes into a different state.

Normal Operation – Low Beam On
· 20 Seconds after ignition is turned on.
· If you flash the high beam.
· If the engine is started (might need a slight rev to see the alternator working).

Running
With ignition off, the amber light will flash really quickly and dimly around every
second. It is really faint, so don’t expect to see it in daylight. This means it’s running
in a super low power state.

Ignition On – 1 Amber Flash
Turn ignition on, and you should see the amber light flash once.
If it doesn’t check –
1. Red/Black wire is plugged into the white wire at the (near right headlight).
2. If highbeam doesn’t work, check the headlight fuse.
3. Check your headlight switch is in the on position (if not already locked on).
4. It might be the headlight switch is faulty. Check with a multimeter that you
get ~12V at the white wire (front right headlight) when ignition is on. Not
uncommon for a problem with these switches if 60/55W bulbs have previously
been fitted… as the current causes damage to the switch.

Low Beam On – 2 Amber Flashes
If you turn ignition on and wait 20 seconds, the green light should come on (so should
the headlights) and the amber flash twice. It can be a little difficult to see the two
flashes with the green light on.

If you get the 2 Amber Flashes, but not the Green light, then you might have a short.
You might actually see the green light turn on briefly, when it tries to turn on. If so,
have a look at the cables going to the front. Check if any of the insulation has come
off and any wires exposed to the frame etc…

High Beam On – 3 Amber Flashes
Turn ignition on, then turn on the highbeams. The amber light should flash 3 times.
While the high beam is on, the low beam stays off – this is normal. If you don’t get
these 3 flashes, and the high beams do come on, then check the connection going to
the black/blue wire. When you turn the high beam off, the low beam should turn on
straight away and you should get 2 amber flashes (as above).

If your still stuck, or have something to add to this… please do contact me!
Eclipze

The LED indicator light didnt flash or anything
The old switch gear is in the bin already...
[hr]

Woot :dance: aj26 has it covered!

The LED on the module is quite handy for working out if the switchgear and highbeam relay are working. It's been a while, so I'd recommend to re-check the headlight fuse just in case.

With your new switchgear... does the horn and indicators work? Does the passing switch now work?

Where is the headlight fuse?
For the new switch gear, the horn and indicators are working. Passing switch not working.

 

[aj26]

Its inside a fuse box located on the LHS airduct, take LHS fairing off and then take off airduct you should see a box that says FUSE