i know this may be a stupid question.
but can i use wd40?
but can i use wd40?
How to Clean the LHS Switch Gear...
12
[align=center]How to Clean the LHS Switch Gear...[/align]
[align=center]
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[/align]
First… why would you clean the switch gear.
1. Your indicators take a long time before they switch on.
2. Your indicators don't switch on.
3. It is hard to move the indicator switch.
4. Because you haven't done it before :blush:
To take the switch gear off the handle bar, there are two phillips head screws to undo from the bottom side. Before pulling the switch gear off, you might need to undo or loosen the clutch lever bracket bolts to get enough room.
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
You can clean the switch gear still connected to the bike, but make sure ignition is off so you don't blow a fuse [
)]. Undo the screw shown below and remove the bottom plate.
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
Remove the bolt holding the indicator lever, and also the plate underneath it. Make a note which order everything goes in.
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
You'll probably see a junked up mess like this...
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
Clean all the crap out, preferrably with a switch contact cleaning spray or a solvent that won't damage plastic. I drenched it in the contact cleaner, drained it off and wiped up the mess with a rag until it was clean.
Make sure to clean the contacts on either side of the white switch block mechanism (you can slide it across with a screwdriver to get to both sides)
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
Ideally you should use a "contact grease" to re-lubricate this mechanism, however they just don't sell it at a lot of places. I used normal grease on the mechanism, but didn't get any on the contacts. Make sure to get some grease on that little ball bearing that moves in when you depress the lever.
To reassemble,
1. Put the small plate in first, screw in.
2. If you removed the black plastic piece, screw this in place.
3. Put the lever in, thick washer first, lever, then flat washer, screw in.
4. Large bottom plate, screw in.
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
If you want to remove the whole switch gear part, you'll probably need to take off the front fairing (or windscreen, though not as good) to get access to the connectors at the back of the instrument. You'll have to loosen the top suspension clamp bolt to move the wire bracket to get the connectors through. Also, the two wires going to the clutch lever will just pull out. It doesn't matter which order those two go back in. Importantly, when you re-install, make sure that the clutch cable has the least tightess path to all the other cables, so its not more difficult to actuate than necessary.
[align=center]
![]()
![]()
[/align]
Repairing of that switch is mostly likely not practical. You're better off replacing the switch from another one (aka... one that has accident damage and of little value to a wrecker).
The picture below shows the switch mechanism on the bottom. The long white block on the top is the low beam on/off switch, which is commonly glued into the on position.
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
You can take the cover off... but just watch out for the spring :shy:
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
After you remove the switch carriage, you can see the lever mechanism. I believe this pin mechanism locks into the bottom of the switch carriage, and it's probably the bottom of the switch carriage that has worn through. Unless you have the skills to repair something like that... forget about it. You're best bet would be to replace this switch (assuming you're good to solder the wires).
[align=center]
![]()
[/align]
Hope that answers your question. Otherwise... you going to need to replace the whole switch gear :dance:
[align=center]
First… why would you clean the switch gear.
1. Your indicators take a long time before they switch on.
2. Your indicators don't switch on.
3. It is hard to move the indicator switch.
4. Because you haven't done it before :blush:
To take the switch gear off the handle bar, there are two phillips head screws to undo from the bottom side. Before pulling the switch gear off, you might need to undo or loosen the clutch lever bracket bolts to get enough room.
[align=center]
You can clean the switch gear still connected to the bike, but make sure ignition is off so you don't blow a fuse [
)]. Undo the screw shown below and remove the bottom plate. [align=center]
Remove the bolt holding the indicator lever, and also the plate underneath it. Make a note which order everything goes in.
[align=center]
You'll probably see a junked up mess like this...
[align=center]
Clean all the crap out, preferrably with a switch contact cleaning spray or a solvent that won't damage plastic. I drenched it in the contact cleaner, drained it off and wiped up the mess with a rag until it was clean.
Make sure to clean the contacts on either side of the white switch block mechanism (you can slide it across with a screwdriver to get to both sides)
[align=center]
Ideally you should use a "contact grease" to re-lubricate this mechanism, however they just don't sell it at a lot of places. I used normal grease on the mechanism, but didn't get any on the contacts. Make sure to get some grease on that little ball bearing that moves in when you depress the lever.
To reassemble,
1. Put the small plate in first, screw in.
2. If you removed the black plastic piece, screw this in place.
3. Put the lever in, thick washer first, lever, then flat washer, screw in.
4. Large bottom plate, screw in.
[align=center]
If you want to remove the whole switch gear part, you'll probably need to take off the front fairing (or windscreen, though not as good) to get access to the connectors at the back of the instrument. You'll have to loosen the top suspension clamp bolt to move the wire bracket to get the connectors through. Also, the two wires going to the clutch lever will just pull out. It doesn't matter which order those two go back in. Importantly, when you re-install, make sure that the clutch cable has the least tightess path to all the other cables, so its not more difficult to actuate than necessary.
[align=center]
Repairing of that switch is mostly likely not practical. You're better off replacing the switch from another one (aka... one that has accident damage and of little value to a wrecker).
The picture below shows the switch mechanism on the bottom. The long white block on the top is the low beam on/off switch, which is commonly glued into the on position.
[align=center]
You can take the cover off... but just watch out for the spring :shy:
[align=center]
After you remove the switch carriage, you can see the lever mechanism. I believe this pin mechanism locks into the bottom of the switch carriage, and it's probably the bottom of the switch carriage that has worn through. Unless you have the skills to repair something like that... forget about it. You're best bet would be to replace this switch (assuming you're good to solder the wires).
[align=center]
Hope that answers your question. Otherwise... you going to need to replace the whole switch gear :dance:
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Thankyou sir! Always helpful
thanks heaps, works better then it did in the first place!
Just came here to say, Thank You Eclipze. Now my indicator switch moves with ease! So easy to do too
Hey, I noticed on most of the project bikes, both the LHS and RHS Switches look very clean and almost brand new...
How would you clean, repaint or recolour these to make it look brand new?
Cheers for the help
How would you clean, repaint or recolour these to make it look brand new?
Cheers for the help
Maybe... I build a lot of things
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
