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How to Clean the LHS Switch Gear...

22657 Views 22 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  jlyall
[align=center]How to Clean the LHS Switch Gear...[/align]


First… why would you clean the switch gear.
1. Your indicators take a long time before they switch on.
2. Your indicators don't switch on.
3. It is hard to move the indicator switch.
4. Because you haven't done it before :blush:

To take the switch gear off the handle bar, there are two phillips head screws to undo from the bottom side. Before pulling the switch gear off, you might need to undo or loosen the clutch lever bracket bolts to get enough room.


You can clean the switch gear still connected to the bike, but make sure ignition is off so you don't blow a fuse [:eek:)]. Undo the screw shown below and remove the bottom plate.


Remove the bolt holding the indicator lever, and also the plate underneath it. Make a note which order everything goes in.


You'll probably see a junked up mess like this... :mad:


Clean all the crap out, preferrably with a switch contact cleaning spray or a solvent that won't damage plastic. I drenched it in the contact cleaner, drained it off and wiped up the mess with a rag until it was clean.

Make sure to clean the contacts on either side of the white switch block mechanism (you can slide it across with a screwdriver to get to both sides)


Ideally you should use a "contact grease" to re-lubricate this mechanism, however they just don't sell it at a lot of places. I used normal grease on the mechanism, but didn't get any on the contacts. Make sure to get some grease on that little ball bearing that moves in when you depress the lever.

To reassemble,
1. Put the small plate in first, screw in.
2. If you removed the black plastic piece, screw this in place.
3. Put the lever in, thick washer first, lever, then flat washer, screw in.
4. Large bottom plate, screw in.


If you want to remove the whole switch gear part, you'll probably need to take off the front fairing (or windscreen, though not as good) to get access to the connectors at the back of the instrument. You'll have to loosen the top suspension clamp bolt to move the wire bracket to get the connectors through. Also, the two wires going to the clutch lever will just pull out. It doesn't matter which order those two go back in. Importantly, when you re-install, make sure that the clutch cable has the least tightess path to all the other cables, so its not more difficult to actuate than necessary.



Repairing of that switch is mostly likely not practical. You're better off replacing the switch from another one (aka... one that has accident damage and of little value to a wrecker).

The picture below shows the switch mechanism on the bottom. The long white block on the top is the low beam on/off switch, which is commonly glued into the on position.


You can take the cover off... but just watch out for the spring :shy:


After you remove the switch carriage, you can see the lever mechanism. I believe this pin mechanism locks into the bottom of the switch carriage, and it's probably the bottom of the switch carriage that has worn through. Unless you have the skills to repair something like that... forget about it. You're best bet would be to replace this switch (assuming you're good to solder the wires).


Hope that answers your question. Otherwise... you going to need to replace the whole switch gear :dance:

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1 - 20 of 23 Posts
i know this may be a stupid question.
but can i use wd40?
I have personally only ever used contact cleaner, as it's the chemical of choice and one I have on the shelf. But I have also heard others have used WD40 to clean the switchgear, however unsure what sort of job it does. WD40 is for water displacement.
I didn't use WD40, I don't think it'd be the best cleaner either, I used degreaser to be honest.
Pretty much to remove all the old grease/junk and then re-greased the lot.
Just make sure you get all the degreaser off, I don't think it's too nice to plastics.
You're a legend Eclipze, this works awesome.
My left indicator would only work in warm weather and the right indicator was delayed 3-5 seconds.
I used CRC electrical cleaner and a silicone spray (supercheap) instead of grease.
My indicators now work instantly everytime.
Thanks again Eclipze. +1
thanks heaps, works better then it did in the first place! :)
Just came here to say, Thank You Eclipze. Now my indicator switch moves with ease! So easy to do too :)
Very helpful and informative thread. Great stuff.
very helpful, can you advise on how to remove the on/off slider switch. i cant seem to undo the external sliding part.

Thanks in advance, Craig.
Hey, I noticed on most of the project bikes, both the LHS and RHS Switches look very clean and almost brand new...

How would you clean, repaint or recolour these to make it look brand new?

Cheers for the help :)
FYI you can buy the OZ-spec switch box from Honda. Brand new they go for about $80, which in my opinion is a farken good buy! Use Eclipze's thread on rewiring j-spec to oz-spec.
I just finished cleaning my switchgear. Indicators now work straight away every time & high beam switch no longer sticks. Thanks for your guidance
i always wondered why the indicators took like 5 secs to come on - annoying when actually riding on the streets. time for me to do this mod and hope they will come on instantly like it should. thanks
Awesome guide.
My indicators took upwards of 10 seconds to turn on. I thought it was another electrical problem because my switch gear was actually very clean when I first opened it.
But the actual contact points were coated in sludge. Now its perfecto.
Hi Eclipze
I think my Switch gear is to far gone to repair. Do you sell these mc22 switchbox's?
Do you have a Batman like signal that shines at your joint when someone posts in the electrical threads???
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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