[Its_Nuttall]

Hey everyone, I've recently bought my first MC22. It is a grey import model however the previous owner has rewired the bike for the Aus delivered LHS switch block. The problem I have at the moment is that the low beam switch has burnt out because the previous owner put in the higher wattage headlight bulbs, and I'd like to change the switch block back to a grey import style one like the one sold on Xcite bikes. Mainly because it is far easier to source one of these rather than another Aus delivered style switch block. Does anybody have any wiring diagrams for both styles so that I might be able to achieve this?

I have had a read of this thread however none of the photos show up for some reason: Switchgear - Oz Import vs Grey Import...

Thanks

 

[Dannoxyz]

Here's one diagram I have. Not sure which version. It has all lighting wire colours labeled, so that should be enough. Probe the replacement switch-gear to see which terminals each switch contacts and connect to factory wiring as needed.

Make a table with colums and switch functions and test & connect one wire at time.

Also install relay so lo/hi switch only triggers relay instead sending all power through switch. Even with factory 35w bulbs, 2 of them is enough to burn out switch.

 

[Dannoxyz]

G = earth
W = lo-beam power
Bu = hi-beam power
A/W = left position light
A = left winker
Lb/W = right position light
Lb = right winker

If you replace hi-beam relay with Bosch-style 5-pin relay, you can use default output to power lo-beams. Then when relay is activated, it flips power to hi-beam terminal. No more burning switches!

Connect W lo-beam to 87A instead of switch and that's it! Lo-beam will be powered by same power-feed Bl/R wire as hi-beam in OR circuit.

30 = Bl/R power-input
87A = W power to lo-beam
87 = Bu/Bl power to hi-beam
86 = Bu hi-beam trigger from dimmer switch
85 = G earth

 

[thebeefsalad]

melted the switch but not the seal on the headlight housing?

 

[Dannoxyz]

melted the switch but not the seal on the headlight housing?

Sure! Two headlight bulbs already suck up 70w in stock configuration. Change to 55w bulbs and that poor switch has to power 110w!!!!

 

[thebeefsalad]

Sure! Two headlight bulbs already suck up 70w in stock configuration. Change to 55w bulbs and that poor switch has to power 110w!!!!

mine came with 2x55w, and the seal in the housing was melting which is why I asked. LHS switch appears to have survived it. I rarely ride at night, so went back to stock wattage/properly fit bulbs.
Eastern Beaver sells a relay harness that'll save guesswork, and better made than anything I could do without tooling up.

 

[Dannoxyz]

I'm thinking of replacing both headlights with projectors. All metal, no plastic to melt!

 

[Its_Nuttall]

melted the switch but not the seal on the headlight housing?

The headlight housing is fine, I'm fairly confident it is the switch as I have no voltage across the low beam W wire.

If you replace hi-beam relay with Bosch-style 5-pin relay, you can use default output to power lo-beams. Then when relay is activated, it flips power to hi-beam terminal. No more burning switches!

This is a fantastic idea! I shall get my hands on one and install it when I change out my switch block