Removing rust from engine for paint prep.

5685 Views 21 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Sneddy, Jul 6, 2010

Ninexz

Discussion Starter · Jun 28, 2010

2

This is the crap im gonna be removing:

So what are my options here?

Obviously, sanding it down myself would be one (extremely time consuming and painful) way. I made a start on it just to see what I would be getting myself into, and after about 15 minutes wet sanding the same spot with 600grit (after spraying with oven cleaner and letting it sit for 30mins) I got this result:

It removed all the rust, however it took all the anodizing off and left the area VERY smooth.. I'm not sure if smooth would be good for rattle-can paint to stick to? Sandblasting leaves metal quite coarse, for better powdercoat adhesion, however powdercoating and rattlecan painting may be different.

So, these are the main questions I have:

1) Will the engine paint stick to the smooth and slippery surface? or should I go over it again with a sandpaper that is more coarse, say 300grit?
2) Is it possible to get an engine sandblasted? I don't want to hand it to some idiot who's gonna get shit down the intakes.
3) Are there professionals who would be able to do this sort of paintjob for me?
4) Red or Black? I've made a poll. I'm thinking black, but red would be pretty unique.

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eddd

· #2 · Jun 28, 2010

You could get it soda blasted? They have a mobile thingo that comes to you, or probably would be cheaper to go to them.

I think soda blasting is less intrusive than sand blasting, and i'm sure you could figure out how to block up all the holes.

I know this mad guy with a crappadore wagon that would probably help you out lol

Crutch

· #3 · Jun 28, 2010

eddd said:
You could get it soda blasted? They have a mobile thingo that comes to you, or probably would be cheaper to go to them.

I think soda blasting is less intrusive than sand blasting, and i'm sure you could figure out how to block up all the holes.

I know this mad guy with a crappadore wagon that would probably help you out lol

+ 1 million

bead blasting can be dangerouse on an engine
soda/caster sugar blasting is the way to go on engines as even if it gets inside the engine it will dissolve in the oil

otherwise 400 grit is more than enough for a rattle can finish,

Ninexz

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jun 28, 2010

awesome, might have a look at how much soda blasting costs. I've never heard of it to be honest.
Looked up some videos and it looks like it would do the trick.

Edd, does this crappadore have a website? where abouts is he located.

G

· #5 · Jun 28, 2010

I clicked on black by accident :-( I want to see a red cbr engine!!!!!!

Get that white pen out for the honda clutch/alt covers too!

Big Al

· #6 · Jun 28, 2010

Go for some coarser sandpaper young padawan, 120 would probably do the trick. Prep for paint with some 320.

eddd

· #7 · Jun 29, 2010

You idiot, you didn't realise that the 'crappadore' was my car ?

Ninexz

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jun 29, 2010

eddd said:
You idiot, you didn't realise that the 'crappadore' was my car ?

your car is the commonwhore, easy mistake

Sneddy

· #9 · Jun 29, 2010

Ontik posted up on the old forum a home made sodablasting system writeup which he stole from somewhere.

From what I remember all you need is a compressor, an air gun with needle attachment, and a good length of plastic rubber hose.

Oh, and some good goggles and air/breathing mask.

You just cut a small hole in the tubing, stick/squeeze the needle of the air gun in, stick the other end (to the rear of the gun) in a bag of bicarb soda, and fire away. Uses venturi effect to draw the soda through the hose and blasts the hell outa what ever...

silent.bob

· #10 · Jun 29, 2010

Vapour/Hydro Blasting

Sneddy

· #11 · Jun 29, 2010

^Yeh... You should definitely send it to a place in England...[hr]
FOUND IT!!!

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

Thanks to Ontik for originally posting it up!

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Ninexz

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jun 29, 2010

silent.bob said:
Vapour/Hydro Blasting

The pics of the before and after on their site are pretty impressive. If I can get mine to that sort of finish, I think I will just leave it unpainted.
looks good enough as it is.
Isn't that what crutch was doing before with his triple clamp?
Would be pretty handy to use his blasting cabinet but I've seen how small it is, and theres no way your gonna fit a motor into it.

silent.bob

· #13 · Jun 29, 2010

Sneddy said:
^Yeh... You should definitely send it to a place in England...[hr]

I posted it as a reference to the finish that can be achieved with the process, rather than somewhere to send it. I figure if you fgts can use a forum then you're capable of finding your own blaster.

But...Hyside came highly recommended when I was looking into it.

Ninexz said:
The pics of the before and after on their site are pretty impressive. If I can get mine to that sort of finish, I think I will just leave it unpainted.
looks good enough as it is.
Isn't that what crutch was doing before with his triple clamp?
Would be pretty handy to use his blasting cabinet but I've seen how small it is, and theres no way your gonna fit a motor into it.

I'm no expert...but...his gear looked straight bead blasted to me, where as Vapour or Hydro blasting is finer and softer again. Gasket surfaces can be blasted safely as it's a much more delicate. I've seen great results from the process, and also some major disasters when the operator is overzealous with the gun. My advice: Do some research into it.

If you decide to go down that road they'll ask you to give them the motor dissembled, with all bearings removed (although they *may* let you tape the harder-to-get ones). Tape up ANYTHING you don't want blasted (ie. cylinder bores) just in case.

HTH.

Matt

· #14 · Jun 29, 2010

i'd be going for ontiks method.

and, don't paint it red. it would look horrendous.

Ninexz

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jun 30, 2010

Sneddy, thats great. Thanks for finding that.
I'm going to build it. I don't have an air compressor though, which might be abit expensive.
Although I had been looking to buy one.

Matt

· #16 · Jun 30, 2010

or hire one...[hr]
actually, if you can wait i can get one from the farm. maybe.

Ninexz

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jun 30, 2010

Matt said:
or hire one...[hr]
actually, if you can wait i can get one from the farm. maybe.

yeah i had a look at kennards and the smallest one they have is $80 overnight hire. Ripofffff
Supercheap has a 2hp one for $130.

Lol, don't go out of your way matt, I think I should have one in a few days anyway.
Thanks though

Sneddy

· #18 · Jun 30, 2010

Realistically you'll be better off buying one - they really are and investment. I have one, but you'd need 3 phase outlet to use it and a crane to move it...

And for $130 it's worth it in the long run.

Ninexz

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jun 30, 2010

Yeah, I've been meaning to get one for a while.
Me and a mate are gonna go halvies, im gonna go to supercheap in about an hour and buy either one of these:

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Blackridge-Air-Compressor-2HP-Direct-Drive-BR77.aspx?pid=155574#details

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Blackridge-Air-Compressor-2-5HP-Direct-Drive.aspx?pid=132283#details

Sneddy

· #20 · Jun 30, 2010

2.5

The 20L tank will be filling up all the time. Just annoying really.

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