CBR250 Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27,301 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What you wanted to know but were afraid to ask

What You need

1. Upper Bearing kit ( Part no. 91015-KT8-005) contains :
- Upper Bearing
- Upper bearing race (inner)
- Upper bearing race (outer)

2. Upper dust seal (Part no. 53214-KA4-701)

3. Lower Bearing kit (part no. 91016-KT8-005) contains :
- Lower bearing
- Lower bearing race (inner)
- Lower bearing race (outer)

4. Lower dust seal (part no 53214-371-010)


- Grease


Preparation

- Remove the fairings
- Jack up the front of the bike securely
- Remove the front wheel
- Remove the fork tubes, making sure that you secure the clip- on’s and the wiring
- Remove the Top Clamp by first removing the nut


Bearing Removal


- pry open the locking tabs
- remove the locknut below the “T” clamp
- undo the but while carefully holding the Lower T from below the steering column
- careful so as to not drop it
- now remove the dust seal and you will see the bearings under that
- remove the bearings and upper inner race and wipe off the grease from the upper and lower races both within the steering column
- hit out the races with a drift and hammer carefully
- take off the lower bearing and lower inner race from the lower T which you removed earlier (this race may be a tight fit and will take some effort to remove)
- remove the lower dust seal


Installation

- first install the outer upper and lower races within the steering column..gently tapping them into place using the old races as a damper between the new races and hammer.
- install the lower dust seal, inner lower race and then the lower bearing after smearing both the race and bearing with grease liberally
- now smear the upper race with grease and lube and place the upper bearing on the race
- gently guide the lower race through the steering stem
- place the upper dust seal over the upper bearing
- install the cover, top nut and bend the locking tabs in place
- fit the top clamp and the top retaining nut.
- Fit the forks, wheel and tighten everything
- Move the handle from side to side about 6 times to settle the bearings


Note - The bearing sizes and part numbers are same across the CBR range from the 250 right upto the 954.[hr]
Thanks to Trigger for the pics


























My salvation and my honor depend on God; he is my mighty rock, my refuge -Psalm 62:7
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
All Balls Racing also do an aftermarket set of tapered roller steering head bearings. They mainly do dirt bike bearings and the CBR250 is not listed on their website, but it is listed in their printed catalogue.

Kit No. 22-1020. The same kit will fit both the MC19 and the MC22. It contains everything you need - bearings, cups and seals. Cost is about $50 and they should be available from most bike shops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,474 Posts
putting the top part back together... what the best way to tighten up the 2 nuts. looked everywhere for a C spanner but cant get one, been using a flat blade and hammer... its really really tight and its still not done up enough to get the second locking nut on.... what to do? do i just keep at and smash it on? also steering is feeling a little hard now... this doesnt feel right
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
I've only looked at the pics posted above, never done this or seen it done before so apologies if i'm mistaken.

If you haven't knocked the bearing races into the frame far enough then when you tighten up the nut, the shaft won't come high enough up to get the locking nut on. Possibly your problem?

As for the steering feeling hard, i'm assuming there is no spacer that holds the bearings apart at a set distance, so when you do the nut up tighter, you are squashing the bearing into its race, which will make it harder to turn as there is too much preload on the bearing. You need to check in a workshop manual how tight, but i'm guessing finger tight plus a very very small amount.

I would be pulling it back out and checking everything has been knocked home against its seat. If you don't find anything wrong i would get someone more experienced to look at it for you.


As for a tool for the nut, your method is fine but may be awkward when trying to lock the 2 nuts together. Remebering that you will not want the bottom nut turning with the top nut after you set the preload.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,474 Posts
thanks mm.kay, solved the problem. the old races didnt come out of the bike, which makes it hard to put in new ones... lesson; make sure all the old shit is off the bike before putting new stuff in. noob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,538 Posts
Thread revival but just wanted to say I bought the above mentioned all balls kit and the lower inner race is the wrong size and doesn't fit on the stem. Heads up.
[hr]
I should add that the bearing is the correct part number and should fit on there. But is way too small it won't even fit just past the threads at the top of the stem let alone on the fatter part at the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27,301 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Merudo said:
Thread revival but just wanted to say I bought the above mentioned all balls kit and the lower inner race is the wrong size and doesn't fit on the stem. Heads up.
[hr]
I should add that the bearing is the correct part number and should fit on there. But is way too small it won't even fit just past the threads at the top of the stem let alone on the fatter part at the bottom.
which is the incorrect number?

Do you have the correct part number? thanks for the heads up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14,538 Posts
The weird thing is, it is the correct number. As per stavros' post. But the bottom inner race is so small it barely makes it past the threads on the too of the stem let alone the bottom where it flares out :(
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top