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Switchgear - Oz Import vs Grey Import...

21K views 21 replies 14 participants last post by  God-Speed 
#1 · (Edited)
Switchgear - Oz Import vs Grey Import...

The Oz Import and Grey Import bikes have different switch gear models.
If you buy new ones from Honda, they will be for the Oz Import bikes.
You can re-wire them, if you have the patience![/align]



Left Hand Switchgear

This post was original written by "marbs". I've posted it here on his behalf ;)


1) Harness before being soldered


Natural material Wood Wire Electrical wiring Electrical supply



2) 1st Plug before being soldered

Electrical wiring Wire Natural material Fashion accessory Electrical supply



3) 2nd Plug before being soldered

Electrical wiring Circuit component Cable Gas Electrical supply



4) Old Switch Gear

Hand Gadget Finger Camera accessory Communication Device



5) New Switch Gear *Note: No switch to turn the headlights on/off! bah

Finger Gadget Wrist Rotary tool Measuring instrument



Taken from patcbr's post, here's how I wired it up:

blue/white to black/red
white to white
blue to blue/white
light green to black/white
grey to grey
light blue to light blue
orange to orange
light blue/white unused
orange/white unused
brown/white to black/brown
black to green/white
black to green/red

--NB. the colours on the left of the list are on the switch harness and those on the right are on the bike harness. Also black/brown on the bike harness needs to be hooked/looped around and connected to brown/white on the bike harness to get the tail light working. Oh and the two unused wires are indicator pilot lights i think but i have a universal 2 pin flasher unit and they might have done something with the oe flasher, but dont no.





Right Hand Switchgear

This post was original written by "gaz". I've posted it here on his behalf ;)


Ok here's a quick heads up for anyone wanting to change their crappy old RHS switchgear (killswitch) on their 250rr with the new OEM one. If you have anything but an RR(r) you will have different connectors and need to rewire but its a piece of cake if you have any basic skill.

First off I'd like to thank Eclipze again, and simply-mighty as he helped out heaps with the change and knows his shit.

So, on the RR(l) this was the config:

2 wires into block A - 3 wires into block B

on the RR(r)

6 wires into 1 block and 1 single wire by itself.

Best way of doing this is by removing the blocks off the cables (they are simple clips that can be pushed out with a bit of leverage from a screw driver and pliers. There is some soldering still to be done though..

On the left is the ORIGINAL BIKE loom, right is new OEM loom (copied from Eclipze)

Yellow/Red stripe ----------------------Yellow/Red stripe

Black/White stripe ---------------------Black/White stripe

Black/Red circles joins ------------------Black/Red stripe joins to
to another Black/Red circles -----------Black/white squares(1 of 3)

Black/White Squares (2 of 3) -----------Black/White Squares (2 of 3)

Black/White Squares (3 of 3) -----------Black/White Squares (3 of 3)

The only way to tell the 3 OEM Black/White Squares wires apart is by getting a multimeter, sticking the probes into each of the 2 brake lever connector wires and then playing around with the 3 Black/White Square wires until you see the 2 that have resistance registering on the multimeter. Those 2 wires then go into the two spots described below in the diagram (don't laugh at it). The final Black/White Square wire is joined to the Black/Red stripe wire and then put into the spot where the original Black/Red circles wires went. Finally the blue wire is left unused, insulate it with some tape and put it aside (it could be used to turn the headlights off while cranking, for that info you must ask Eclipze)See pic below:

Diagram A - this is what the finished product will look like. Please note this diagram is drawn such that the connector blocks have the CLIPS UPWARD FACING YOU


Line Font Parallel Rectangle Diagram




Some pictures of the product...

Finger Gesture Electrical wiring Thumb Gadget




Hand Finger Gadget Audio equipment Thumb




Finger Gadget Electrical wiring Audio equipment Cable







This post will be edited when I have time to make it clearer...Thanks again to simply-mighty :cool: and Eclipze :headbang:



Search Terms: Switch gear, switchgear, block, LHS, RHS, rewire
 

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#7 ·
Hey guys,
Just registered to write up a clear cable connection list. I brought my GF a 99' 250rr and receintly the left hand switch controls gave way (it was the low beam high beam selector switch). I did take it apart but the little brass side and the plastic holder was kinda melted so it was for the bin.

Brought a Aus delivered 95' hand hand control from Honda for about $82 and printed the pics above and went to work. Came a little unstuck when re-connection hence this post.
Connections for me were:

Bike Harness..........Switch Harness
wht/gry___________wht
gry/sil____________gry/blk
org/gry___________org/blk
grn/wht___________blk/wht
grn/red___________blk
dk.blu/wht_________dk.blu
blk/red____________dk.blu/wht
blk/wht____________grn
lt.blu/gry__________lt.blu/blk

(brn/wht + blk/brn)___brn/wht

lt.blu/wht = nothing
org/wht = nothing

Thank you to Eclipze for the first write up it really helped me out!
 
#8 ·
does anyone know if you can't just get the part number for the grey import switchgear and then order that from honda? honda will order anything if it's still available and you have the part number to give them. there will be a different part number.

it's the same with ducati. Aus and US delivered bikes all have headlights permanently on and the off/parkers/low beam switch removed. but you can just buy the euro switch and put that on. it's nice to be able to turn off your headlights when starting the bike or at the track etc.
 
#12 ·
blue/white to black/red
white to white
blue to blue/white
light green to black/white
grey to grey
light blue to light blue
orange to orange
light blue/white unused
orange/white unused
brown/white to black/brown
black to green/white
black to green/red


I see this & am wondering which colour wire corresponds with...let's say earth or low or high beam. Does anyone know which wire does what; not just which wire goes to which wire. The switchgear i bought has listed which wire is for what but I can't find anything saying which is what on here. Help please??
 
#19 · (Edited)
DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility to any damage you do to your bike. It's custom wiring which means soldering and heat shrink is a must. Twist and tape makes baby Jesus cry.

Hey all, relatively new member but a fellow owner and mechanic by trade.

Combo switch crapped out on my mc22 so chased around for new replacement. As they aren't made anymore had to source second hand.

I decided instead of going a second hand mc22 switch and have the possibility of it crapping out on me again, I searched for a similar switch from another bike. Turns out the cbr1000r switch is practically identical.



This is the switch now installed on my bike.

Wiring was as follows

OLD:
Green - brown = horn
Grey = power in for indicators
Orange= left indicator
Light blue= right indicator
Blue/white= power in lights
White= low beam
Blue= high beam
(Note indicator switch has brown/light blue/orange all with a white trace as seen here:

This doesn't actually operate anything. It feeds power to both sides and when you indicate one way it cuts power to the other side. You can either leave these wires apart or join all three together and isolate from the rest like I did)

NEW:
Grey= indicator power in
Light blue= right indicator
Orange= left indicator
Blue/white= power in headlights
Blue= high beam
Black/grey - white/green = horn

As you can see, there's no low beam signal out of the switch :/ so I installed a switching relay. If you can't work out how to wire a relay maybe you shouldn't be doing custom wiring.... Or I'll just finish this off when I get home lol
 
#20 ·
I recently took apart my high low switch to put In a new one and I just want to confirm I have the factory functions
When you click hi lo beam button will it switch on the low beam and turn it off? Is that the function? And just use the high beam as passing?
Or will low beam turn on when the key is in ignition and control the low beam and hi beam?
Not sure whitch way to solder it.. For road worthy certificate purposes..
 

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#21 · (Edited)
And this is the finished product using an older version cbr250 and various other models switch...
The function is hi /lo beam switch (never off)
If you want off and low beam you can do all separate wires I don't even know if I did it right. But it seems to be working for now until my crapy solders fall apart. Also going to slap on some hot glue for extra strength.

I do not take responsibility for any damages this may cause to your bike. Do this at your own risk.
 

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#22 ·
Recently installed a switch with Grey Import functions (off/parkers/on) and thought it might save some time for the more mechanical sided people here to write up the wiring connections and purposes of the grey import switchblock.

//CBR250rr MC22 Grey Import Left Hand Switchblock\\

CONNECTIONS:
HORN:
BLACK/WHITE - LOOM TO HORN
BLACK/BROWN (SPLITS)
- HORN -> BACK TO LOOM
- 'P' LIGHT POSITION (PARKERS)


LIGHTS: (OFF/PARK/HEADLIGHTS)
BLACK/BROWN - LOOM TO OFF POSITION (LINKED WITH HORN)
BROWN/WHITE - PARKERS -> BACK TO LOOM
BLACK/RED (SPLITS)
- ON POSITION FOR LIGHTS -> BACK TO LOOM
- 'PASSING' BUTTON


PASSING: (HIGH BEAM FLASH)
BLACK/RED - LOW BEAMS
BLUE/WHITE (SPLITS)
- HIGHBEAM 'PASSING' -> BACK TO LOOM
- HIGH BEAM ON HI/LO BUTTON


HI/LO BEAMS:
BLUE/WHITE - HIGH BEAM
WHITE/BLUE - LOOP FROM LOW BEAM TO 'ON POSITION' FOR HEAD LIGHTS
WHITE - BACK TO LOOM


INDICATORS:
LIGHT BLUE/GREY/ORANGE - TO LOOM


CLUTCH SWITCH:
BLACK (x2) - TO LOOM






WIRE FUNCTIONS:
BLACK/WHITE - HORN ACTIVE
BLACK/BROWN - DASH LIGHTS POWER
BROWN/WHITE - PARKERS/REAR BRAKE LIGHT
BLACK/RED - HEAD LAMPS
WHITE/BLUE - LOW BEAM LOOP (You won't find this unless you pull the switch apart)
BLUE/WHITE - HIGH BEAM
WHITE - LOW BEAM
GREY - INDICATOR ACTIVE
LIGHT BLUE - RIGHT SIDE INDICATORS
ORANGE - LEFT SIDE INDICATORS
BLACK(X2) - CLUTCH SWITCH


nothing feels better than making shit work!
 
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