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The MaC22 project

31964 Views 118 Replies 42 Participants Last post by  Carnageracing
9
Well it's been a while coming but I've picked up a 22 and am embarking on a journey to utilize the skills or lack of I picked up on the MaC19.

This will not be as epic as the MaC19 as my plans for this bike are as follows:

Get the bike running, currently it's not and has a suspected blown piston.

Clean it up, looks pretty good but if you suffer from a little OCD then you notice dirt in places most people don't care about.

Rebuild the brakes, the rear wheel is sticking a little and I think the piston cylinders need a hone. I will replace the pads and install some HEL braided lines while I'm at it.

Clean the carbs, they look pretty good but while it's apart why the fuck not. :D

I don't want to replace all the fairings or change the colour as they are in good condition and I think this colour appeals to the younger generation looking for there first bike. The only part I will replace is the rear fairing that wraps around the rear light.

I'll paint the engine and brake calipers and maybe even the forks but not 100% sure about those yet.

I'm working on a budget and want to sell the bike once I've registered it.

Enough shittalk, let the journey begin.......

Dad and I took a flying trip to Melbourne to pick up this.



I got it home and realized my shed was leaking (mainly from condensation) and I needed a place to work on the beast, so I ripped the roof sheets off, laid some saking (not the Japanese alcoholic type :D) and re-installed the sheets.

Hey Presto?



I now had a place to work.



Not very big but good enough.

When I visited the CBR whisperer I took note of his bike stand and thought "that is a fucking good idea", I'm not exactly a spring chicken and I started getting a sore back always bending down to work on the MaC19, so I built one.



WITH BITCHES!!!!!



:D

Representing the crew.



I now have a nice little place to call my own.







Got some shit to do so I'll continue this in the morning.

Scrooge :D
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51
Well, I got a chance to spend a few hours on the bike yesterday and made a bit of progress.

Here goes.....



Here is where I was at, the work bench was looking a little cluttered but thankfully it was time to start re-assembling some things.

Starting with the brake calipers.



I used the vice and a socket to push the brake pistons back in.



The rear pads still have a fair amount of meat on them so I didn't replace them.



I did buy new front pads as the old ones were thinning out.



Want my advice then buy a vice as a vice is nice and worth the price, so buy a vice now. OK gice.........I mean guys :D



One.





Two, three.



That got me a little more space.

I reconnected the swingarm applying some grease to the bearings and bolts. It's not the cleanest but I will polish it a little more when the bike is back together.





The pulse generator sits in behind the left hand engine cover, re-connecting this bought me a little more workbench space.



Behind the right hand engine cover sits the alternator, reconnecting this bought me more workbench space.



It truly is amazing that this complex device creates electricity when the flywheel? spins around it. I think it's friction? and magnetic forces or some shit (I understand how it works just not how to explain it).



I got a package :D



I ordered these parts from RB Imports in Carringbah on Wednesday about 3pm and they arrived Thursday about 11am, that's pretty quick service.

it's hard to come by parts at the moment due to the earthquakes in Japan but Geoff had them in stock.



For those of you (like me) who are not mechanics and want to learn how to install rings, pay attention.



Your rings will arrive like this.



And the order in which they should be installed is like this (starting at the bottom and working your way up).



The bottom ring which is your oil ring is made up of three rings which need to be installed like so.

You must install the squiggly ring first, It is the only way.



Then you install the two thinner rings EITHER side of the squiggly ring.

One.



Two.



The manual recommends 20mm gap between the joins in the thinner rings.

The oil ring is designed to remove any oil from the cylinder on the downward stroke of the piston.

Ring two is the thicker of the remaining two rings (compression ring?) it has a slight sham fer which must go the right way up. To make this easier there is a "RN" mark on the top or maybe it's "ROPNOP" :D





The final ring only has a single "R" or "ROP" mark.





Try to scatter the joins in your rings for maximum seal and compression, for best results have them at 120 degrees apart.



Repeat x 4



Use some oil on you finger to lube the cylinder then slip it in.....:-/.....:D



OOOOOHHHHHH yeah :D



Ok, I'll get my mind out of the gutter now, you will find four of these at the top of the cylinder.



They help you compress the rings (you will need to do one at a time) so you can push the piston in.

I used a small flat-head screwdriver and worked my way around the rings.



All done :D



Flip the crankcase and apply some grease or oil for the crankshaft. I used high temp grease but only a little. Just enough to keep it lubed until the oil can get in there.



Apply it on the crankshaft also.



Sit it in there and tighten the pistons to it. It's easier to do two at a time then rotate your crank and do the other two.





I then applied some gasket sealer to the crankcase staying away from these areas.



They are designed for oil flow.



Crankcase back together and now it's time to tighten the 24 bolts that hold it together (make sure you lock-tight the bolts).



NOTE: the bolts must be tightened in the correct sequence, I have attached a photo to show this.



Next re-install the oil pump sprocket and chain.



Sump with a new oil filter (thanks Mr Ballzy) was next.





Sump on.

Oil filter was next.







Flip the engine and there are three more bolts on the other side.



Crankcase complete.







That is it for now.

The next step (for those who read the MaC19 project) will involve the head, some blu-tak and a feeler guage.

Scrooge :D
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No, i didn't.

How would I do this?

Do you need a special tool?

I assume this would be to check if the cylinder needs a re-bore or am I wrong?

As mentioned I'm not a mechanic and don't pretend to be, i just enjoy playing :D
THanks Ruff, interesting to read, cool to see how everything goes together :)
Scrooge McRuff said:
No, i didn't.

How would I do this?

Do you need a special tool?

I assume this would be to check if the cylinder needs a re-bore or am I wrong?

As mentioned I'm not a mechanic and don't pretend to be, i just enjoy playing :D
you use feeler guages. You can get em for like $2 at the Kmart auto section. What you need to do is put the rings in the bore without the piston and see what the gap is where the ring has its split. If it is too small, when they heat up, they expand... and the gap closes to nothing... so this results in the ring not having any room to expand so it presses against the bore and gouges it... which undoes all of your hard work. Also, you really should use a piston ring compressor tool. $10 at repco and will save damaging them with a screw driver.

Also, I liked your last rag :)
Are you sure that the black ring goes the second one? I'm pretty sure that it has rectangular cross-section. Which according to manual should go to top. And the grey one has trapezoidal cross-section that should go to the middle slit.
At least when i was checking mine they were.

This is the part of the manual that shows it:



Please don't say that you are sure. Please, please, please.
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I'm positive that's how it goes, the top ring has rounded edges and the darker ring is squared off with the sham fer. The manual also indicates the top ring should only have a single "R" on it.

Thank you Mr Humbug, I have feeler guages as I need them for the valve clearances. I'll remember that for the next rebuild. I will not be removing the pistons now, I installed the head and it's doing everything it should when i rotate the crank. I've started the valve clearances and will post up some more progress when i'm done.

I got the rag from Sho - something something - Onsen in Japan when I went to the hot baths there in 2010. Was my favourite place in Japan, just can't remember the name :D
yes as mentioned you put the ring in the bore and check the gap between the 2 ends , hence checking ring end gap

check in the middle and the bottom of the bore as this is where the most wear is
Scrooge McRuff said:
I'm positive that's how it goes, the top ring has rounded edges and the darker ring is squared off with the sham fer. The manual also indicates the top ring should only have a single "R" on it.
Ooooooooh, shit!
Great build you got there, wish i could be like you :D

i would like to know where did you get the ebc pads from? Did you get it off wayne?
I just can't stop wondering the thoughts in your head when you go to press the starter button for the first time when it's all back together. Hehe .. I would be petrified of it blowing up and bits flying all over the place :p
hunkipunky said:
Great build you got there, wish i could be like you :D

i would like to know where did you get the ebc pads from? Did you get it off wayne?
The EBC pads are FA142HH sintered.
I paid $80 including postage from the US for 2 front sets, ebay.
I had a look around and they were the cheapest at the time.

Might aswell give wayne a call to get a price.

__________________________________________________________________________
edit: the rears are FA140
Thanks for the vote of confidence Mr Wally.........asshole, I think I preferred it when I couldn't find you :D

I have a little more confidence after the MaC19.

I do remember getting on that and thinking ok, it's run in, now will it rev out to 18k? It did and it still does, was definately a hold your breath moment followed by a moment of achievement. :D

Mr Hunki, I went to the Honda dealer here in Wagga to order some pads and they had them in stock, I paid $100 for the set. Who is Wayne? I think I will need his details for the next project.

Sorry Mr Mutant, pull it apart and do it again. I pulled the MaC19 engine apart 4-5 times due to no locktite, not lining the "T" mark up, being retarded and a few other things, but in the end I had learned what not to do, I'm still learning but I'm getting better.

It will be a lot quicker the next time :D
^ wayne gardner, retailer of ebc brakes in australia http://www.waynegardnerapproved.com/

$100 isn't too bad from honda for the pads.
Hehe .. wasn't having a go, was more what I would be thinking if I were in your shoes! The pics with the bazillions of bits to pull out and put back together is what made me think it :)
Scrooge McRuff said:
Sorry Mr Mutant, pull it apart and do it again. I pulled the MaC19 engine apart 4-5 times due to no locktite, not lining the "T" mark up, being retarded and a few other things, but in the end I had learned what not to do, I'm still learning but I'm getting better.

It will be a lot quicker the next time :D
Already did yesterday :)
Took about an hour.
That was my 4th of 5th time because of the gear not facing the right side.
21
OK, so I finally had some time to work on the bike over the weekend. We are trying to build a mental health building in 11 months atm which should take about 18 months plus we are renovating our house so we can sell it (I want a bigger shed) so spare time is few and far between.

I have had a couple of full retard moments while working on the bike which I will go through as we go.

Here is how we left it last time.



Pistons currently sitting at TDC, the "T" mark on the flywheel thing shows this.



A little bit of blu-tak so I can check valve to piston clearances later, this was a little trick tought to me by Mr Mootavic.



Head on.



gear train in.



IN and EX facing each other, you can have them facing opposite ways also, as long as they are level with the head it matters not.



This is the begining of my full retard moment, the cam holders are installed incorrectly, IN2 and EX2 are correct as they only go one way, the rest (i'm not sure why) IN1, EX1, IN3, EX3, IN4, EX4 should face one another NOT face in opposite directions. I couldn't find anything in the manual to show this but I did learn a $165 lesson.



I couldn't get the cams to turn over easily but I went ahead and checked the valve clearances anyway.



Then I removed the head again and ordered new cams thinking the old ones may have been bent due to the piston explosion.

Blu-tak in place and clearance fine.



New cams arrived.





Take two, full retard moment No.2, I re-installed the cam holders incorrectly once again, long story short Dad came over and realized what the problem was.

Here is how they should look.



Here is one of the cam holders, notice they are slightly larger on one side.



I didn't take photos for the rest of the day as I was extremely pissed off with myself and started rushing to put things back together full retard moment No.3, 4 and 5 followed, I snapped one of the cams, forgot to lock-tite once then I dropped a cam holder spacer through the spark plug hole. Then I stopped as I realized I was making far too many mistakes.

Two weeks later I started again, I'm not painting the rest of the engine I have decided as someone want to buy this bike and I would like to have it running ASAP.

Engine covers on.









Ready to install.



Installed.





That's it for the moment, I am fishing with Dad this weekend but am taking next Wednesday off to work on the bike and am hoping I can get it running then.

I noticed the sticker on the sub-frame and here is what this bike originaly looked like.



I had a guy walk up to me the other day while I was riding the MaC19, he handed me a business card and told me if I wanted to sell it to call him as he wanted it for his son. I told him if he wanted to give me $10k for it he could have it as that's about what i've spent on it :D

I did tell him about this bike and he is interested, hence why I'm putting it back together faster than I would have if I painted the engine. My mate Bob also wants this bike.........wait till I finish it fuck yas :D

Will update again soon.

Scrooge :D
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Scrooge McRuff said:
IN1, EX1, IN3, EX3, IN4, EX4 should face one another NOT face in opposite directions. I couldn't find anything in the manual to show this but I did learn a $165 lesson.
When I was measuring the valve-to-camshaft clearences i had to do the same thing. And i was thinking that the texts on the cams that go for the same side should be faced in one direction.
Well, I mean that you should be able to read EX1, EX2, EX3, EX4 without walking around or bending your neck (or tilting your head, not sure how it goes in English).
Still, you're doing a great job there. Keep it up, man.
Good work mate, nice n thorough progress!
Excellent work

Cant wait for an update
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