Well, I got a chance to spend a few hours on the bike yesterday and made a bit of progress.
Here goes.....
Here is where I was at, the work bench was looking a little cluttered but thankfully it was time to start re-assembling some things.
Starting with the brake calipers.
I used the vice and a socket to push the brake pistons back in.
The rear pads still have a fair amount of meat on them so I didn't replace them.
I did buy new front pads as the old ones were thinning out.
Want my advice then buy a vice as a vice is nice and worth the price, so buy a vice now. OK gice.........I mean guys
One.
Two, three.
That got me a little more space.
I reconnected the swingarm applying some grease to the bearings and bolts. It's not the cleanest but I will polish it a little more when the bike is back together.
The pulse generator sits in behind the left hand engine cover, re-connecting this bought me a little more workbench space.
Behind the right hand engine cover sits the alternator, reconnecting this bought me more workbench space.
It truly is amazing that this complex device creates electricity when the flywheel? spins around it. I think it's friction? and magnetic forces or some shit (I understand how it works just not how to explain it).
I got a package
I ordered these parts from RB Imports in Carringbah on Wednesday about 3pm and they arrived Thursday about 11am, that's pretty quick service.
it's hard to come by parts at the moment due to the earthquakes in Japan but Geoff had them in stock.
For those of you (like me) who are not mechanics and want to learn how to install rings, pay attention.
Your rings will arrive like this.
And the order in which they should be installed is like this (starting at the bottom and working your way up).
The bottom ring which is your oil ring is made up of three rings which need to be installed like so.
You must install the squiggly ring first, It is the only way.
Then you install the two thinner rings EITHER side of the squiggly ring.
One.
Two.
The manual recommends 20mm gap between the joins in the thinner rings.
The oil ring is designed to remove any oil from the cylinder on the downward stroke of the piston.
Ring two is the thicker of the remaining two rings (compression ring?) it has a slight sham fer which must go the right way up. To make this easier there is a "RN" mark on the top or maybe it's "ROPNOP"
The final ring only has a single "R" or "ROP" mark.
Try to scatter the joins in your rings for maximum seal and compression, for best results have them at 120 degrees apart.
Repeat x 4
Use some oil on you finger to lube the cylinder then slip it in.....:-/.....
OOOOOHHHHHH yeah
Ok, I'll get my mind out of the gutter now, you will find four of these at the top of the cylinder.
They help you compress the rings (you will need to do one at a time) so you can push the piston in.
I used a small flat-head screwdriver and worked my way around the rings.
All done
Flip the crankcase and apply some grease or oil for the crankshaft. I used high temp grease but only a little. Just enough to keep it lubed until the oil can get in there.
Apply it on the crankshaft also.
Sit it in there and tighten the pistons to it. It's easier to do two at a time then rotate your crank and do the other two.
I then applied some gasket sealer to the crankcase staying away from these areas.
They are designed for oil flow.
Crankcase back together and now it's time to tighten the 24 bolts that hold it together (make sure you lock-tight the bolts).
NOTE: the bolts must be tightened in the correct sequence, I have attached a photo to show this.
Next re-install the oil pump sprocket and chain.
Sump with a new oil filter (thanks Mr Ballzy) was next.
Sump on.
Oil filter was next.
Flip the engine and there are three more bolts on the other side.
Crankcase complete.
That is it for now.
The next step (for those who read the MaC19 project) will involve the head, some blu-tak and a feeler guage.
Scrooge
Here goes.....

Here is where I was at, the work bench was looking a little cluttered but thankfully it was time to start re-assembling some things.
Starting with the brake calipers.

I used the vice and a socket to push the brake pistons back in.

The rear pads still have a fair amount of meat on them so I didn't replace them.

I did buy new front pads as the old ones were thinning out.

Want my advice then buy a vice as a vice is nice and worth the price, so buy a vice now. OK gice.........I mean guys

One.


Two, three.

That got me a little more space.
I reconnected the swingarm applying some grease to the bearings and bolts. It's not the cleanest but I will polish it a little more when the bike is back together.


The pulse generator sits in behind the left hand engine cover, re-connecting this bought me a little more workbench space.

Behind the right hand engine cover sits the alternator, reconnecting this bought me more workbench space.

It truly is amazing that this complex device creates electricity when the flywheel? spins around it. I think it's friction? and magnetic forces or some shit (I understand how it works just not how to explain it).

I got a package

I ordered these parts from RB Imports in Carringbah on Wednesday about 3pm and they arrived Thursday about 11am, that's pretty quick service.
it's hard to come by parts at the moment due to the earthquakes in Japan but Geoff had them in stock.

For those of you (like me) who are not mechanics and want to learn how to install rings, pay attention.

Your rings will arrive like this.

And the order in which they should be installed is like this (starting at the bottom and working your way up).

The bottom ring which is your oil ring is made up of three rings which need to be installed like so.
You must install the squiggly ring first, It is the only way.

Then you install the two thinner rings EITHER side of the squiggly ring.
One.

Two.

The manual recommends 20mm gap between the joins in the thinner rings.
The oil ring is designed to remove any oil from the cylinder on the downward stroke of the piston.
Ring two is the thicker of the remaining two rings (compression ring?) it has a slight sham fer which must go the right way up. To make this easier there is a "RN" mark on the top or maybe it's "ROPNOP"


The final ring only has a single "R" or "ROP" mark.


Try to scatter the joins in your rings for maximum seal and compression, for best results have them at 120 degrees apart.

Repeat x 4

Use some oil on you finger to lube the cylinder then slip it in.....:-/.....

OOOOOHHHHHH yeah

Ok, I'll get my mind out of the gutter now, you will find four of these at the top of the cylinder.

They help you compress the rings (you will need to do one at a time) so you can push the piston in.
I used a small flat-head screwdriver and worked my way around the rings.

All done

Flip the crankcase and apply some grease or oil for the crankshaft. I used high temp grease but only a little. Just enough to keep it lubed until the oil can get in there.

Apply it on the crankshaft also.

Sit it in there and tighten the pistons to it. It's easier to do two at a time then rotate your crank and do the other two.


I then applied some gasket sealer to the crankcase staying away from these areas.

They are designed for oil flow.

Crankcase back together and now it's time to tighten the 24 bolts that hold it together (make sure you lock-tight the bolts).

NOTE: the bolts must be tightened in the correct sequence, I have attached a photo to show this.

Next re-install the oil pump sprocket and chain.

Sump with a new oil filter (thanks Mr Ballzy) was next.


Sump on.
Oil filter was next.



Flip the engine and there are three more bolts on the other side.

Crankcase complete.



That is it for now.
The next step (for those who read the MaC19 project) will involve the head, some blu-tak and a feeler guage.
Scrooge