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World War Three

8216 Views 24 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  sharkbait
Bought an mc19 and literally bought registration yesterday (and i mean yesterday), only to have the engine on my bike explode the second time I rode it, without even a good story. Just accelerating away at some lights, hit 8k rpm and bam OSKLDJFBOASIDNFSKDGSHVHCBISO, world war three between my legs. I haven't yet stripped the engine down but i think that the piston in the second cylinder absolutely shat itself (causing me to shit myself along with it) destroying other vital parts along with it like valves etc... yay
I'll be pulling the engine out tomorrow and stripping it down to see what sort of devastation has occurred inside. So stay tuned for my rivers of tears and some pretty pictures of the devastation within...

I figure i have four options, i can either;

1. rebuild the engine - as its an mc19 engine though, and mc19 pistons are no longer made so this would require me getting a set of mc22 pistons, an mc22 head and mc22 carbs, along with all the other rebuild stuff such as valve springs (not sure what they're actually called) and piston rings etc. I'd be doing the entire rebuild myself as I'm a little cash strapped at the moment :/

2. the new secondhand engine - trying to get a complete mc19 engine and then using the best parts from each engine, or buying an mc22 engine and putting that in, however i believe the engine mounts are slightly different for each engine due to the different frames of the mc22 and the mc19?

3. the radical - swapping the mc19 engine for something completely different. From my cursory google searches apparently the 600rr engine is the most commonly swapped engine, however if anyone has any details or knows anyone that has done and engine swap i'd love it if you put me onto them! but no pretend single cylinder 250 engines :')

4. the dreaded - sell / part out the bike - i don't really want to do this as even with my limited riding time on it, i love the bike. But if this is going to be the most cost effective, i guess that's what ill do

p.s if anyone lives in Adelaide and want to lend a hand ill pay you in love and beers :')

Thanks guys and gals!
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Just an FYI, I swapped everything over from an MC19 motor to the MC22 engine in the MC19 track bike.
All fits a treat & runs fine.
I just used a rattle gun to undo the bolt to get the rotor off.
if you still have trouble, pull the sump & put a piece of wood down ( or a steel bar if you don't care about the internals) to stop the crank from turning.
The bolt's on pretty tight, so you may need a decent breaker bar as well. Use a 6 point 14mm socket.
I haven’t read through the whole thread here so maybe you have explained it better but I think you are trying to fit an mc22 engine into an mc19 frame and swapping the pulse rotors over? I assume you will be putting the mc19 rotor cover on the mc22 engine so that you keep the 2 VR sensors? You will need to be very careful that the rotor is aligned in exactly the same way referenced to #1TDC when installed on the mc22 engine as when installed in the mc19 engine. If this isn’t bang on then your ignition timing is out and you have no way of adjusting it.
Actually the rotor has an indexed section so will only go on in one position.
Luckily it works :)
First up, thanks for all the help so far!
I eventually got the bolt off, but my rattle gun just wasn't up to the job. I gave up and took both the engine and bike over to Rocca Auto electrical, where they got the bolts off for me, and swapped them round for me. Took all of about 3 minutes and made me look like the largest retard on the face of the planet :D

The good news is that the motor runs perfectly after swapping over the rotors and housing and doing some dodgy coolant system hose hookups (pics coming)! Started first go, and then scared the absolute shit out of my mate and I, as we'd forgotten to reattach the exhaust... idiots...
The bad news is that the clutch doesn't work...
The clutch handle just flops around uselessly and doesn't disengage the clutch, but the little pivot on the side of the engine (I forgot to take a photo) moves its full length of travel, so I'm fairly certain the clutch cable adjustment is correct. Has anyone else had this problem? because i have no idea what it could be, mostly because i have no idea how a clutch actually works, even after looking at the manual...

Just an FYI, I swapped everything over from an MC19 motor to the MC22 engine in the MC19 track bike.
All fits a treat & runs fine.
I assume this means the clutches are the same? and if i need i can just steal some parts from the old engine to fix the new one? Also as you swapped everything over to the mc22 engine, what carbies did you end up using? On mine im still using the mc19 carbies and boots, i just folded up some aluminium foil and stuck it under the clamps on the carbies and used some liquid gasket between the boots and the head so they'd seal properly.
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All right, after some serious forum searching i found this:

"ok, so I don't know exactly what happened, but I tightened the clutch cable right up so the clutch disks *should* have been separated from the friction plates, rolled it fast enough while in neutral and the engine running so that I could change into first due to engine/road speed matching. I then rode it (took 3 seconds before it started to slip). I then adjusted my clutch to the correct lever action/free play, and it worked like normal. So I think something was making the packs stick together initially."

While i haven't replaced the clutch, the engine oil was drained (i assume when the wrecker took it off the bike) which may mean the friction plates dried up?! -honestly grasping at straws here
So now that the plates should've been sitting in the engine oil that i replaced on Friday, I'll give this a whirl.
Alright, the promised pictures of the coolant system hookup! I just used the mc19 system and removed the pump/valve gate thing (not sure what its actually called) that the mc22 has sitting on top of the engine. This required me to buy some longer pipes however, as the mc19 has two metal ones that terminate just above the head, whereas the mc22 pipes terminate as soon as they come out of the engine. This meant i needed to buy some longer pipe so that i could still connect them up to the little gate/cap thing.

This is the left side, this side isnt too bad, however because of the idle adjustment screw sitting down so low, i had to thread the tube through this space. the end result is if i want to take the carbs out, i have to drain the coolant system....
Bumper Tire Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle

The right hand side is worse, there was literally not enough room under the carbs for this tube to go back up, so i had to re-route it outside the frame :/ Thank god for fairings...
Automotive exterior Vehicle door Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood

In other news, i fixed the clutch, it turned out to be just sticky plates, i ran the engine til warm with the clutch pulled in and in neural and the bike on a rear stand. once it was warm, i shifted into first, gave it a couple of revs and stood on the rear brake, and boom, the clutch started working again!

Now just to re-register it and ride! Who's coming with me?! :p Woo-Hoo!
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