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yzf250 gearbox trouble

7.5K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  sYn  
#1 ·
hey guys hadnt even thought to ask you! but my yzf had a full rebuild 2 months ago. 2 mechanics looked at it and i asked them to pay extra attention totop gear (5) cause it had been sliping.
as usuall i got it back rebuilt and 5th still slips. i thought maybe it had to do with the spring pulling the clutch cable back on the motor but fixed that and its still not going properly so i figure im screwed.

when in 5th if i accelerate hard it seems to rev without wheels turning.

but it never properly no matter how low revs are it always grabs and then slips etc etc.

its only in 5th but all the other gears are fine! any ideas?
 
#2 ·
Your clutch is the problem, not the gearbox.

Gearbox issues are usually failing to select a gear or jumping out of gear.

The clutch has to work harder in top gear than any of the other gears, so that is where a slipping clutch will show problems first.

Have you been using a synthetic car oil with friction modifiers in it? If not, the friction plates may be worn out. They are not difficult to replace.
 
G
#3 ·
Clutch. Higher gears increase the load through the clutch.

It wont be the gear itself unless it is dropping/banging out of gear into false nuetral

Im guessing either:

Springs are under static length limit, fibre or steel plates are under width limit or notches worn in the inner or outer clutch hub driven faces.

How many Km's on the bike?

Im tipping it's wear notches on the hub driven faces. It usually is.
 
#4 ·
Syn:

A big +1 to Chukitova. He has explained all the possibilities perfectly, and he is correct in his diagnoses. To inspect your clutch, lay the bike down on the opposite side to where your clutch cover is. This will allow you to remove the clutch cover (I believe it is the cover on the right side of the YZ250F), without having to drain the transmission oil.

Once the cover is removed, you will be looking at the clutch assembly. As Chukitova has said, you will need to inspect 5 things primarily. They are: Springs (4 or 5 of them, held on with bolts), Fiber plates (dark brown in colour), Steel plates (bright and shiny), the Inner Hub and the Outer Hub. Chances are, it will be the outer hub which is worn. This is the large round aluminum part with slots in it that holds the clutch plates in place. Over time the plates will wear the slots on the hub down. You may notice this when you look at it. I have seen some people file these so they are square again but filing enlarges the size of the slots, which makes for a sloppy clutch, so it is better to replace the hub.

As for the plates, you will need to check a service manual and find the minimum thickness for the fiber plates. Generally these are designed to wear out before the steel plates. You will find about 8 or nine fiber plates (alternating with the steel plates within the hub), and you will need to measure these with vernier calipers to check their thickness. If they are less than the recommended thickness then they are worn out and should be replaced.

The same goes for your springs. Once removed, measure their length, if it is less than they should be, they will need replacement. If they are borderline you can install a washer or two when you put them back in but chances are, they are probably tired and should be replaced.

Though it looks complicated when you first open up the cover, the whole procedure is quite simple to perform. Removing the bolts that hold on the springs will allow you to remove both the fiber and steel plates which you can then measure. This will also let you see the inner and outer hub surfaces to see if they are worn.

If you get the service manual there should be an explanation of how to do this. Only other thing is you may have to replace the gasket on the clutch cover when replacing the cover, as they can tear when separating the clutch cover from the crankcase.

So, depending on the age of your bike, you may be looking at replacing the outer hub, at least the fiber plates, and it would probably be a good idea to replace the springs regardless, as they are relatively inexpensive and play an important role in preventing the clutch from slipping. Once the job is done you will need to re-adjust your clutch cable with the correct amount of free play and life will be good once again, in fact, you may be able to roost your buddys, even in fifth gear !
 
#5 ·
psidey said:
Though it looks complicated when you first open up the cover, the whole procedure is quite simple to perform. Removing the bolts that hold on the springs will allow you to remove both the fiber and steel plates which you can then measure. This will also let you see the inner and outer hub surfaces to see if they are worn.
When opening up a clutch it is important to undo these bolts evenly, a few turns at a time. If you just start removing each bolt one by one you can break the clutch hub. The bolts bolt into pillars on the clutch hub which are not designed to take bending loads. If you completely undo each bolt as you go, you may well break a pillar or two.

Image
 
#6 ·
thanks heaps guys!! i been stressing bad about it cause i want to sell bike and now i cop this!
also bike has 100hours on the clock but its known when that was put on exactly, i think it was a rebuild. its 04 model so yeah.
anyways i will get onto this soon now roadbike is nearly done! :)